We are ensconced in our apartment in Edinburgh or in Leith to be more exact. The apartment is very large for a one bedroom being a basement flat which runs essentially the length of the main terrace house above us. Have been invited upstairs for drinks with the owners parents (it's complicated) soon after we arrived and based on the sitting room and the huge staircase we saw, this was not once a poor part of Leith. Not a massively grand place but not a workman's cottage. Flat is across the road from 'Leith Links' which apparently is where golf was invénted and played and at various other times there were horse races on it. There is a plague pit down one end and there are these grassy raised mounds that some historians believe were artillery mounds created by the British in 1560 fór the 'Siege of Leith'. This apparently was some battle between the Brits, aided by Protestant Scots and the French' (who supported the Catholic Queen). So there are probably some French bones under the park as well. Bit like Naremburn oval. Now it is just a lovely big park to walk in.
Initial impressions of Leith - very diverse population. It seems to have quite a community feel about it - bit like a little village. Don't know how the various parts get on. There are a number of people who I assume have lived here all their life and would be ...mmm.. from a lower socio economic part of society. Basically there are still some pretty poor people living here. Still a fair amount of social housing. We blundered into the middle of one of these areas on our first night. Did feel a bit like Trainspotting. Leith however has become popular with the wealthier inhabitants of Edinburgh (like our landlords) and there are lots of young families here. There are also a lot of men in their 20's and 30's with carefully coiffured bushranger beards so yes the hipsters are here which does mean there are some very good cafes and restaurants. There are Michelin star restaurants in Leith and nowhere else in Edinburgh. Then again there is a pub called The Foot of the Walk and have been told that it gets very ''çolourful'' around there in the evening. Overlaying that - a number of Eastern Europeans live here -mainly Poles. A suburb in 'transition' I assume.
The owners of our flat are a couple in their 40's I'd say with 2 young children and a gigantic dog called Nero that resembles a draught horse. Fortunately he just seems to slobber a lot so not expecting to be attacked anytime soon.
I guess I should get the weather report out of the way. After being lulled at day 1 into thinking that we could experience warmer weather with some sunshine it of course resumed normal transmission and I have become quite used to experiencing sun, wind, cold, hail and rain all in one day. Never go out without a coat with hood. Umbrellas totally useless with that wind. I am making like a local and just ignoring the weather. Half the time they do not seem to even bother with a hood - just carry on as if they are not being pounded by driving rain. Explains the stoic look on their faces sometimes.
Have stocked up on essential supplies including a visit to Stephen's favourite whisky shop - Cadenheads and purchased 2 bottles. One is with me for sipping on while Stephen is away up north chasing the salmon. Yes Stephen has departed for his week of fishing way up north. I have been playing solo tourist for a couple of days and will do so for the rest of the week.
I have joined the Leith 'Leisure Centre'' aka gym and pool. It is all housed in a 19th century swimming baths. It is quite stunning looking inside with a little lace balcony surrounding the pool. The pool is pretty small though and when I had a look today I fortunately noticed everyone swims down the right, not left. That could have been interesting.
I have been playing tourist a bit as I figure it is only going to get more crowded as 'summer' progresses. I visited the National Museum of Scotland which is an interesting amalgam of Victorian índustry exhibits - trains and the like; stuffed animals (again sort of Victorian museumy) and archaeology of Scotland exhibits which I found interesting. Who knew Scotland was once on the equator and had a tropical climate. Lots of stuff on ancient scottish tribes, invaders etc etc. So much on the Picts, the Scots, the Angles, the Vikings, Scandinavians generally and.. stuff on Scottish kings, modern day issues like independence... I was exhausted by the end. Terrific museum. Should probably go back.
I thought I should see the relatively new Scottish Parliament that was designed by a .. Spaniard. Very modern - stark contrast to rest of inner Edinburgh. Think I missed most of the symbolism. - lots of wooden stakes and bits of rock sticking out of the wall outside. I also visited something called John Knox House. It is in the old town part i.e. medieval part. Only thing is it seems John Knox only lived there for a few months and (possibly) died there. Is a great house though as it dates back to the late 1400s - massive stone walls, winding stone staircase and huge fireplaces. The top floor has an oak panelled room with a strange wooden painted ceiling with bacchanalian scenes. Bizarre but apparently that was the fashion. Strange given how austere the Scots seem to have been then (or so I thought). The main owner was actually a wealthy jeweller/goldsmith called James Mossman who was actually on the wrong side in the end (he supported Mary Queen of Scots) and ended up executed as a traitor. John Knox is quite revered here - strikes me he was a 'fire and brimstone' Presbyterian minister but as he ended up on the winning side religion wise he is pretty popular as a tourist attraction. I suspect he was one impressive politician. Then I find out after I return to the flat and do some reading, that Daniel Defoe (aka Robinson Crusoe) also stayed at John Knox House. Essentially he was an English spy sent to persuade the Scots to agree to union with the English. That house must have got pretty crowded at times. Finally on the John Knox theme, visited St Giles which is a large Kirk (church) in the old town where John Knox preached. Old - mostly dates from the 1300's-1500's but as per usual in Europe there has been some place of worship there for some 900 years and bits and pieces been added to, burnt down etc over time. Has this very ornate chapel called the Thistle Chapel which is where the knights of the order of the Thistle sit. Some order of chivalry founded in the 1600's that is still in existence. Lots of dark carved wood and the kirk is large but fairly plain inside. Very different to some English and French etc cathedrals.
I have also visited an area called Stockbridge. An area I know well from previous visits as one of our friends lives there. It is more upmarket than Leith. Very genteel these days. Wasn't always though and the housing consists in part of a number of old tenements. Very pretty area. Visited great bookshop called 'Golden Hare Books' and of course had to buy something. Found a book called The Sewing Machine -set in Glasgow and Edinburgh so most appropriate. From there I went to the Royal Botanical Gardens. Initially not excited but then saw a beautiful weeping willow tree, a huge hedge that is 8 metres high and over a 100 years old plus a manicured garden dedicated to the Queen Mother and decided it was alright. The Queen Mother Garden has this pavilion completely covered inside with large shells -not sure why. Maybe she had a little known fetish for sea shells.
A lot of the news here concerns the upcoming election. There seems to be a greater difference between the 2 major parties - Conservatives and Labor than at home although Theresa May has been accused of stealing some of Labor's ideas. I can't see a lot of similarity. They also do the same idiotic 2 word slogans. Theresa May's is 'strong and stable'' and she chants this continually including when she went on a chat show with her husband and was asked to describe her marriage. Yep it was '...strong and stable''. Yawn. Jeremy Corban seems to be largely dismissed as a bit of a loony. Not sure what Labor were thinking putting him in as leader. Meanwhile in Scotland, Nicola Sturgeon is obsessed with re-opening the Scottish independence issue. (It is called indyref2. Good grief). I don't get the impression though that people here are interested in independence even with the issue of Brexit. Just too unrealistic from an economic point of view but who knows. In general people seem just as irritated and cynical about their politicians as at home.
And lastly they do greet you here with '"Hiya'' and the place is full of twittering little birds, very plump looking bigger birds and squirrels rushing around busily now the weather is warming up. It is the bird sounds in particular that I notice are so different from home. And it is 7pm and the sun is now shining. So different.
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