Postscript for the 24th - there was a headless fish in our fridge on the 24th. Stephen returned from Perthshire bearing a good sized trout. It was caught from a boat in Perthshire on a loch the name of which Stephen is not sure, but seems to think it sounds like Glenn Shorrick from the Little River Band. That will do. He cooked it whole (minus head) for dinner a day later and it was delicious. So fresh. Thinking of equipping him with bow and arrow so he can catch some deer.
Stephen excelled himself another night by cooking another delicious game stew, this time with mushrooms. He has also been purchasing some interesting wine from local place called Majestic Wines. Both enjoyed a very nice Italian red with the game stew called Copertino - lightish Italian red and a French beaujolais/burgundy from Macon on another night. Not the same as having our cellar on hand but we are managing.
We also tried out a local seafood restaurant down at The Shore at Leith called Fishers. It's in some old watchtower where Charles II famously ate some haggis before fleeing to France (OK made the Charles II bit up but is in old watch tower). Place full of tourists (wait so are we) - Americans, Italians, French, English and Irish sitting near us. Food was very good. Enjoyed some oysters and local fish. Decided to be decadent as well and creme brulle for dessert. We shared a bottle of wine and Stephen also had an affogato, so were very mellow by the end.
While on the food theme, this morning (Saturday) we visited the local Leith markets. Bought some rye bread and Italian cheese. One was an aged riccota. Never heard of aged riccota. Had some for lunch and very nice. Walked through Leith Links to get to markets (stopping off at Printworks coffee shop first of course) and passed one of my favourite dogs - brown and white spaniel with red frisbee in his mouth, trotting home. Discussed how we now recognised many of the local dogs. Funny spaniel down at the markets walking around with a soft toy reindeer in his mouth. Would put down carefully every now and then.
As I am writing, the place smells a bit fishy. It's Saturday afternoon and Stephen is busily cleaning fishing gear. The car is returned tomorrow and that is the end of the fishing trips. Much washing of boots and fishing lines. Fortunately is a mild day and we have doors and windows open to air the place (and disperse fishy smell).
We have both been reading and I have joined the local library. Borrowed a couple of good books. One is by an Irish author - Emma Donoghue called The Wonder. Very Irish - about a young girl who has supposedly stopped eating and it is deemed to be a miracle by The Church. Also reading one by a UK writer - Janet Ellis. The book is The Butchers Hook. I borrowed it because it is set in Georgian London - mid 1700's and it is set around the time of the first inhabitants of The Georgian House I visited in Charlotte Square. Not very glamorous times even if you had money. No running water even if you lived in a Georgian mansion. Many smelly people. Leith Library (of course being in another old 1800's building) is not large and was interesting seeing the types of books. Unsurprisingly lots of UK authors. A number are Irish and I really enjoy a lot of Irish writers (although can be a bit bleak) so that is good. Couldn't see any Scandi crime novels though so at least in Leith doesn't seem to be popular. Between the library and the numerous bookshops I think we will not run out of books.
We made use of the car on Friday and visited South Queensferry. This used to be where the ferries crossed the Firth of Forth before the bridges were built. Reminded me of numerous villages we have visited in various parts of the UK from Cornwall to the Isle of Skye. Many buildings from the 1800's and some from the 1600's - very pretty place. Actually a bit like the village the TV series Doc Martin is set in. Stopped in local tea shop as felt should do something there - bought almond and pear tart and cappuccino and drove back home. Area has usual Scottish tales of witch burnings, haunted houses, a connection with Robert Louis Stevenson, a brewery and the battles with the English. Also a house called the Black Castle which is neither a castle and nor was it black originally (although now painted black to ensure the tourists don''t miss it I guess ). It was built in 1626 and one of its inhabitants was burnt as a witch - she was blamed for her husband's drowning at sea but it now seems that the local Reverend may have wanted the place, so accusing here of witchcraft after her husband died, was as good a method as any. Queensferry is located right underneath a crossing of the first bridge - the red train bridge - and it is impressive seeing the first bridge up close. There are now 3 bridges crossing the Firth of Forth (the last is yet to open) and all 3 are pretty impressive. Also drove through some lovely suburbs in Edinburgh, so the trip was worthwhile for that alone.
Been interesting comparing what is considered important news by the BBC compared to the ABC and SMH, both of which I can read online. Australian news place more emphasis on Asia - North Korea etc gets reported here but generally reported after the first ''ad break'' and focus is very euro-centric. Although in common, all media outlets are continually reporting on the Trump administration - I think more in horror than anything else now. Focus here still very much on Brexit. On-going confusion. Today I read the Lord Mayor of London thinks there may be no Brexit and he is being held out as a possible Labor leader.
Had funny experience at local shop this morning. A ''colourful'' local was being served before us and a young woman bumped into him, walking off without apologising. He turned to us and said in broad Scots that she was very rude and was no doubt a foreigner. Aside from his comment being stupid, I just looked at him and thought - if I open my mouth he is going to know I too am a foreigner. Interesting to think what he would have said if I had spoken to him with a broad Australian accent.
We have just started watching season 2 of the Top of the Lake. It is set in Sydney. Is interesting to see the uniquely Australian bits but also how the setting and characters play I think somewhat to Australian stereotypes. I guess a scene shot at Bondi Beach is going to be more interesting to Brits than a view of Willoughby Road. Enjoying it and are still watching a US show called Blacklist which has 4 seasons and 68 episodes. We are onto season 3 and are hooked. Can't leave until we get to the end. Will be a close run thing.
Saturday, 29 July 2017
Monday, 24 July 2017
17-24 July
As part of my cunning back up plan to become an Edinburgh tour guide I added to my knowledge by visiting a few more historic sites. Mostly without Stephen, as he has been making the most of having a car and has headed off fishing when I have been doing my tourist bit. Fishing seems to be a tricky thing. One day had to be aborted before a line was even cast due to the high winds. And sometimes as already mentioned, too much sun is no good. Anyway today (the 24th) he has ventured further afield to Perthshire as got a tip from a friend on another fishing spot not too far away. Hopefully he will have some success. Perthshire is very pretty anyway and today is a lovely sunny day.
While Stephen has been away I have re-visited Holyrood. Last time we went there it was pouring and freezing cold. This time it was sunny and mild. Much better, as also got to see the gardens and Holyrood Chapel or ye old ruined Chapel. Took the audio option this time which was worth it. Now better understand the different parts of the Palace. Saw where Mary Queen of Scots lived and is now obvious to me how it is a much older part of the Palace'. Even saw where her ''evil'' second husband Lord Darley killed her secretary in 1566 in a fit of jealousy - stabbed 56 times (or so the audio said). Anyway even with a degree of cynicism as to how much artistic licence is taken with describing these types of events, is always quite spooky to imagine that someone like Mary Q lived here at one stage. Found out another random fact. The Kings Bedchamber where there was the usual grand four poster bed was not really the Kings bedroom in baroque times. The King actually slept in a smaller bed in another less grand room. The grandly decorated bedchambers were for entertaining and impressing dignitaries. Not sure why you would want to impress people with your bedding. Also learnt that Louise XVI's brother escaped here from the French Revolution. Aside from running away from the guillotine he was apparently bankrupt and Holyrood Chapel offered a sanctuary for debtors. At its height there were hundreds of bankrupt people encamped near the chapel. And Louise's brother eventually returned to France and became Charles X. Saw where the current Queen entertains. Clearly very much a working Palace still. The grounds are also impressive as Arthurs Seat is in its backyard.
Also added to my knowledge about art and went to an exhibition on ''Beyond Caravaggio'' at the National Gallery. Very enjoyable. Paintings both by Caravaggio and artists who were inspired/influenced by him. Caravaggio's paintings were the stand outs for me. The paintings seem to extend out of their frames. Apparently he employed tricks used by photographers like unusual viewpoints and cropped figures pressed against the frames. It works. He was also an interesting and not particularly friendly character - being known to beat up his rivals and eventually having to flee as he committed a murder. One writer said that in comparing him to Rembrandt - Rembrandt makes things real in order to speak our language while Caravaggio does it to scare you out of your wits. Thought was most apt. Anyway another artist to add to my list of must see more of their works.
We have also managed to be sociable and had dinner down at Stockbridge with some friends who live in Edinburgh and nearby. Have not forgotten how to talk to other people so that is good. Also had a friends son over for dinner as he now líves in Glasgow. Was interesting chatting to an intelligent 27 year old to hear what he makes of the UK political scene. Seems to be continuing support for the Labor party among the younger voters. Stephen cooked some delicious slow cooked beef ribs - bought from our local butcher. Also discovered local second bookshop that sells some books out the front for 50p each. Have grabbed a few as are now reading more.
And also got to something called the Real Mary Close and The Georgian House. Complete contrasts. The Real Mary Close is a historic close from the 16 and 17th centuries in the old town (medieval part) which now lies underneath some Government offices on the Royal Mile. Basically a series of small streets with tenement houses on either side. The tenements were around 8 stories high, built on a slope. Due to the descent of the close some buildings were demolished down to their foundations, while at the bottom of the hill, whole houses were buried in tact. The City Chambers sit on top of it. Last resident left in the early 1900's. It was only opened as a tourist attraction in 2003 so they are still discovering things. Living conditions were not great. In one house (3 rooms - which was luxury), part of the original ceiling is in tact - lath and plaster and the rooms are meant to be haunted. Some little girl is meant to appear and people leave her dolls to play with. Bit creepy. Also a bit touristy but worth it just to get the chance to walk into these old houses and closes. And they were not all poor people who lived here. If you lived in Edinburgh before the New Town was built; this is where you resided.
By contrast also visited an old Georgian house in Charlotte Square. This is in the New Town. Built so the wealthier inhabitants of Edinburgh could escape from having to live in the Old Town. If you had money; you left the Old Town. First owner bought this particular place in 1796. Is now a National Trust property and was really well done. The place has been set up to show how a Georgian family would have lived, including the servants quarters and volunteers in each room with information sheets to answer questions. Surprisingly good and informative rather than just a tourist attraction. Charlotte Square was a prestigious address and they lived somewhat better than those in the Real Mary Close. Interestingly was initially landed gentry who lived here but as they ran out of money (heaven forbid they work) and had no more properties to sell - the middle class and professionals moved in like Doctors and Lawyers. Still a nice part of town - mainly commercial tenants in the buildings around the square now - banks and Government offices. Nicola Sturgeon's official residence is in a house that fronts this square.
And finished off my sights with a visit to St Cuthberts Church which is right near Charlotte Square. This is heading to the west end, which I do not know as well. Stumbled onto the graveyard and did not realise its location until I glanced up and saw Castle Rock with the castle perched on it; soaring above me. Thought that was worth a photo. Most of these graveyards claim to hold gravestones of various famous people, none of whom I can ever seem to find. However without even looking, this time I found a grave with the words "Sir Henry Raeburn"on it. Some famous Scottish artist I have discovered this trip. Checked when I returned and yep he was buried there. I wont be so dismissive in the future regarding 'the location of famous people's tombstones.
While Stephen has been away I have re-visited Holyrood. Last time we went there it was pouring and freezing cold. This time it was sunny and mild. Much better, as also got to see the gardens and Holyrood Chapel or ye old ruined Chapel. Took the audio option this time which was worth it. Now better understand the different parts of the Palace. Saw where Mary Queen of Scots lived and is now obvious to me how it is a much older part of the Palace'. Even saw where her ''evil'' second husband Lord Darley killed her secretary in 1566 in a fit of jealousy - stabbed 56 times (or so the audio said). Anyway even with a degree of cynicism as to how much artistic licence is taken with describing these types of events, is always quite spooky to imagine that someone like Mary Q lived here at one stage. Found out another random fact. The Kings Bedchamber where there was the usual grand four poster bed was not really the Kings bedroom in baroque times. The King actually slept in a smaller bed in another less grand room. The grandly decorated bedchambers were for entertaining and impressing dignitaries. Not sure why you would want to impress people with your bedding. Also learnt that Louise XVI's brother escaped here from the French Revolution. Aside from running away from the guillotine he was apparently bankrupt and Holyrood Chapel offered a sanctuary for debtors. At its height there were hundreds of bankrupt people encamped near the chapel. And Louise's brother eventually returned to France and became Charles X. Saw where the current Queen entertains. Clearly very much a working Palace still. The grounds are also impressive as Arthurs Seat is in its backyard.
Also added to my knowledge about art and went to an exhibition on ''Beyond Caravaggio'' at the National Gallery. Very enjoyable. Paintings both by Caravaggio and artists who were inspired/influenced by him. Caravaggio's paintings were the stand outs for me. The paintings seem to extend out of their frames. Apparently he employed tricks used by photographers like unusual viewpoints and cropped figures pressed against the frames. It works. He was also an interesting and not particularly friendly character - being known to beat up his rivals and eventually having to flee as he committed a murder. One writer said that in comparing him to Rembrandt - Rembrandt makes things real in order to speak our language while Caravaggio does it to scare you out of your wits. Thought was most apt. Anyway another artist to add to my list of must see more of their works.
We have also managed to be sociable and had dinner down at Stockbridge with some friends who live in Edinburgh and nearby. Have not forgotten how to talk to other people so that is good. Also had a friends son over for dinner as he now líves in Glasgow. Was interesting chatting to an intelligent 27 year old to hear what he makes of the UK political scene. Seems to be continuing support for the Labor party among the younger voters. Stephen cooked some delicious slow cooked beef ribs - bought from our local butcher. Also discovered local second bookshop that sells some books out the front for 50p each. Have grabbed a few as are now reading more.
And also got to something called the Real Mary Close and The Georgian House. Complete contrasts. The Real Mary Close is a historic close from the 16 and 17th centuries in the old town (medieval part) which now lies underneath some Government offices on the Royal Mile. Basically a series of small streets with tenement houses on either side. The tenements were around 8 stories high, built on a slope. Due to the descent of the close some buildings were demolished down to their foundations, while at the bottom of the hill, whole houses were buried in tact. The City Chambers sit on top of it. Last resident left in the early 1900's. It was only opened as a tourist attraction in 2003 so they are still discovering things. Living conditions were not great. In one house (3 rooms - which was luxury), part of the original ceiling is in tact - lath and plaster and the rooms are meant to be haunted. Some little girl is meant to appear and people leave her dolls to play with. Bit creepy. Also a bit touristy but worth it just to get the chance to walk into these old houses and closes. And they were not all poor people who lived here. If you lived in Edinburgh before the New Town was built; this is where you resided.
By contrast also visited an old Georgian house in Charlotte Square. This is in the New Town. Built so the wealthier inhabitants of Edinburgh could escape from having to live in the Old Town. If you had money; you left the Old Town. First owner bought this particular place in 1796. Is now a National Trust property and was really well done. The place has been set up to show how a Georgian family would have lived, including the servants quarters and volunteers in each room with information sheets to answer questions. Surprisingly good and informative rather than just a tourist attraction. Charlotte Square was a prestigious address and they lived somewhat better than those in the Real Mary Close. Interestingly was initially landed gentry who lived here but as they ran out of money (heaven forbid they work) and had no more properties to sell - the middle class and professionals moved in like Doctors and Lawyers. Still a nice part of town - mainly commercial tenants in the buildings around the square now - banks and Government offices. Nicola Sturgeon's official residence is in a house that fronts this square.
And finished off my sights with a visit to St Cuthberts Church which is right near Charlotte Square. This is heading to the west end, which I do not know as well. Stumbled onto the graveyard and did not realise its location until I glanced up and saw Castle Rock with the castle perched on it; soaring above me. Thought that was worth a photo. Most of these graveyards claim to hold gravestones of various famous people, none of whom I can ever seem to find. However without even looking, this time I found a grave with the words "Sir Henry Raeburn"on it. Some famous Scottish artist I have discovered this trip. Checked when I returned and yep he was buried there. I wont be so dismissive in the future regarding 'the location of famous people's tombstones.
Sunday, 16 July 2017
13-16 July
Stephen found out that his fishing expedition near Edinburgh was at the beginning of the Water of Leith - a place called Harperrig Reservoir. Very pretty anyway and he did manage to catch 8 trout all up. After speaking to one of his fishing buddies, apparently fishing at twilight is the thing to do so he is planning a return visit.
Stephen has excelled himself with his culinary skills even if no trout has yet appeared on our dinner plates. He cooked a game stew with potatoes and a delicious mushroom risotto the last few days. Been very spoilt. Loved the game stew and been making the most of eating mushrooms as it is something that Will refuses to eat.
We drove to Glasgow on Friday as is only about an hours drive and visited the west end which is a very buzzy area - lots of cafes, restaurants and shops. Also lots of students as near Glasgow University. Reminded me of the different buildings to Edinburgh - the stones used in the housing are much lighter or a deep red. Different quarries I guess. Also a ''cheekier'' place overall than Edinburgh I think. We had lunch at a place Stephen knows well called the "Ubiquitous Chip" - the name is to poke fun at Scotland's culinary reputation. Funny signage out the front with variations on its name - ''Exigious sip'', ''Ubi ubi dubh'', ''Wee chippy'' etc. Lovely meal -pork belly and not a chip in sight. Both been to Glasgow before so decided could not be bothered trying to move the car and find another carpark so headed back after lunch and a short walk around the west side.
Spent the weekend in Edinburgh. Attempted to hand in VAT refund documents at tourist info place but gave up after finding out that we would be charged another 3% on top of the usual admin charge plus the exchange rate charges if we wanted a credit on our credit cards. In fact after all the charges it appears that we will be paying the UK Govt and/or banks for shopping in the UK (well it felt that way). Wandered down to Canongate on Saturday (on the Royal Mile) and found little whiskey shop selling whisky, cigars and some gin. Got to sample a lovely 8 year old cask strength whisky from around the Isle of Mull (can't believe I just wrote that). Tasted very nice. May go back to purchase a bottle to take home. Also revisited Cadenheads - iconic whisky shop - and put name down for some bottle coming in the end of July. New shipments talked about in whispered tones and only those in the know get to put name down in special book for reserving a bottle. Also sampled another oak strength whisky - quite sweet with honey undertones (there I go again). Stephen also been waxing lyrical about wine can buy at Tesco - is pretty impressive and quite a novelty for us to be able to buy French wine and Guinness in the same shop as our milk and yoghurt.
Were going to do some sightseeing after visiting whisky shops but decided Nah we'd head back and watch women's finals at Wimbledon. Saw Venus Williams soundly beaten. I'm not a great fan of the Williams family so not unhappy but did agree was sad watching her total collapse in the second set.
Slept in Sunday morning and skyped Will. Can't believe how well he looks. He ran through the food he had just cooked ready for the week. Very impressive. Definitely not relying on 2 min. noodles and take away pizza. Then coffee at favourite place - the Printworks. They now recognise us and we have been handed a coffee card. Almost feels like home.
Sent Will a picture of some tartan trousers and told him that was planning on buying him and girlfriend a matching pair. Disturbingly he said Em would like the trousers. Told him was not going to try and squeeze matching tartan trousers into our bags. Glad did not show him matching tartan ''onesies'' that had also seen. They were hideous.
Weather looks to be good at the beginning of the week so Stephen planning another foray off fishing on Monday. I will probably go and see a Caravaggio exhibition that he is not so interested in. Also just happy pottering around the city centre. Lots of buskers and people around. The Jazz and Blues Festival has started and there is a general air of anticipation about the Fringe starting in a few weeks time.
Weather definitely slowly warming up. Wore fur-lined boots, jumper and gortex coat on Saturday into town and was too hot. Given it is mid-summer, would be pleased if could at least put the fur-lined boots away.
Stephen has excelled himself with his culinary skills even if no trout has yet appeared on our dinner plates. He cooked a game stew with potatoes and a delicious mushroom risotto the last few days. Been very spoilt. Loved the game stew and been making the most of eating mushrooms as it is something that Will refuses to eat.
We drove to Glasgow on Friday as is only about an hours drive and visited the west end which is a very buzzy area - lots of cafes, restaurants and shops. Also lots of students as near Glasgow University. Reminded me of the different buildings to Edinburgh - the stones used in the housing are much lighter or a deep red. Different quarries I guess. Also a ''cheekier'' place overall than Edinburgh I think. We had lunch at a place Stephen knows well called the "Ubiquitous Chip" - the name is to poke fun at Scotland's culinary reputation. Funny signage out the front with variations on its name - ''Exigious sip'', ''Ubi ubi dubh'', ''Wee chippy'' etc. Lovely meal -pork belly and not a chip in sight. Both been to Glasgow before so decided could not be bothered trying to move the car and find another carpark so headed back after lunch and a short walk around the west side.
Spent the weekend in Edinburgh. Attempted to hand in VAT refund documents at tourist info place but gave up after finding out that we would be charged another 3% on top of the usual admin charge plus the exchange rate charges if we wanted a credit on our credit cards. In fact after all the charges it appears that we will be paying the UK Govt and/or banks for shopping in the UK (well it felt that way). Wandered down to Canongate on Saturday (on the Royal Mile) and found little whiskey shop selling whisky, cigars and some gin. Got to sample a lovely 8 year old cask strength whisky from around the Isle of Mull (can't believe I just wrote that). Tasted very nice. May go back to purchase a bottle to take home. Also revisited Cadenheads - iconic whisky shop - and put name down for some bottle coming in the end of July. New shipments talked about in whispered tones and only those in the know get to put name down in special book for reserving a bottle. Also sampled another oak strength whisky - quite sweet with honey undertones (there I go again). Stephen also been waxing lyrical about wine can buy at Tesco - is pretty impressive and quite a novelty for us to be able to buy French wine and Guinness in the same shop as our milk and yoghurt.
Were going to do some sightseeing after visiting whisky shops but decided Nah we'd head back and watch women's finals at Wimbledon. Saw Venus Williams soundly beaten. I'm not a great fan of the Williams family so not unhappy but did agree was sad watching her total collapse in the second set.
Slept in Sunday morning and skyped Will. Can't believe how well he looks. He ran through the food he had just cooked ready for the week. Very impressive. Definitely not relying on 2 min. noodles and take away pizza. Then coffee at favourite place - the Printworks. They now recognise us and we have been handed a coffee card. Almost feels like home.
Sent Will a picture of some tartan trousers and told him that was planning on buying him and girlfriend a matching pair. Disturbingly he said Em would like the trousers. Told him was not going to try and squeeze matching tartan trousers into our bags. Glad did not show him matching tartan ''onesies'' that had also seen. They were hideous.
Weather looks to be good at the beginning of the week so Stephen planning another foray off fishing on Monday. I will probably go and see a Caravaggio exhibition that he is not so interested in. Also just happy pottering around the city centre. Lots of buskers and people around. The Jazz and Blues Festival has started and there is a general air of anticipation about the Fringe starting in a few weeks time.
Weather definitely slowly warming up. Wore fur-lined boots, jumper and gortex coat on Saturday into town and was too hot. Given it is mid-summer, would be pleased if could at least put the fur-lined boots away.
Wednesday, 12 July 2017
8-12 July
Hanging around Edinburgh and its environs for the last few days. Given had spent the last few weeks travelling on and off was ready for a bit of a break. Edinburgh is getting more crowded - definitely more tourists around. Oh those annoying tourists. The Festival brochures are all out now and we wandered into the main Fringe Office on the Royal Mile - like the pros we are, to print off some tickets for 3 shows we have booked. We feel like old hands at this. Stephen made an important purchase, visiting our local Majestic Wines to top up our "cellar" . He is missing having his cellar handy but we are getting to sample some interesting wine that we do not generally drink at home. Will apparently had some great bottle of French wine when out to dinner for his birthday. He sends photos of wine labels to his father and Stephen answers with copies of wine labels from our purchases here. It seems to work for them.
We visited my favourite pub from past visits called the Cafe Royal. It is smaller than the Standing Order pub and is decorated with artworks made of ceramic tiles from Royal Doulton, depicting celebrated inventors and scientists like Stephenson and Watt. I think it is a pretty classy place. Read that Edinburgh has more licensed premises than any other part of Scotland. Thought Glasgow would have beaten them to it. Saw another funny pub name today - "All Bar One". Sydney really has to lift its game.
Been doing some shopping while sales are on. We visited a place called Livingstone (about 30 mins west of Edinburgh) as were told it has an outlet store and we were curious. Was expecting Birkenhead and got about 4/5 times that size. It was massive. We were suffering from shopping fatigue before we finished with the first building. Stephen got a coat (his second one for the trip I must say - given luggage restrictions he will now be wearing 2 coats onto the plane going home) and we found a nice shirt for Will. I bought nothing but did make up for it today.
Stephen has headed off fishing today as has located a loch that is only 30-40 mins drive from here. Sent him on his way this morning with all his equipment. It is actually lovely and sunny today but was told that is not ideal for catching trout - something to do with the trout being able to see you better with the sun or it glints on....things. Given the vagaries of Scottish weather I think you just fish whenever there isn't a howling gale. I did a dash to the shops as the sales are ending. Very sneaky of them before most tourists arrive. I may have bought a few items of clothing and given weight restrictions on luggage, I too may be wearing home a strange combination of clothing flung around my body.
We also used the car to visit a place called Granton. Never heard of it? Me neither. But it does have a fishing mega store. Stephen in ecstasy. It does also have a huge harbour - part of the waterfront along the Firth of Forth so funny why Leith is so well known and this place isn't. It became part of Edinburgh after WWII and actually had a more useful harbour than Leith due to tidal flows etc. Unlike Leith though was no long standing settlement or village there (Edinburgh basically was a series of villages that eventually all joined together). Rows of tenement houses for the workers. Even had a castle at one stage but certainly doesn't appear in any tourist brochures. Not that I am recommending a visit. Basically an old industrial area - some cute houses, bigger ones up the hill and a huge fishing mega store.
Discovered that Edinburgh is also famous for having one of the world's worst poets. I have come across him a few times. There is a pub named after him (naturally) called "The Captain's Bar" as he lived his last few years above the bar. His name was William Topaz McGonagall and he also got a mention in the Guardian literature review this week so I assume the poet in question who was reviewed, was not thought highly of. His poems are widely regarded as some of the worst in English literature - his only understanding of poetry was that it needed to rhyme. Amused myself last night googling him. He also thought that he was a talented actor and played Macbeth in one production but was so bad he had to pay the theatre to put the play on and when he believed the actor playing Macduff was trying to upstage him; McGonagall just refused to die. I am late to the party as Spike Milligan and Peter Sellers had a character called McGoonagall; Monty Python featured a McGonagall - esque poet and the Harry Potter books have a Professor McGonagall.
We got back to Stockbridge this week and visited George Bower - the butcher with the animal heads in his shop. Stephen bought some game to make a game stew so got to watch Wimbledon one rainy afternoon, smelling a delicious game stew cooking on the cooktop. He has been cooking some impressive meals. We also purchased 2 little liquor glasses at a charity shop at Stockbridge for a total of one pound. Stockbridge has an impressive number of charity shops for reasons that escape me. The shop we visited had some rather nice things including some Italian Art Deco style demitasse coffee cups. Anyway stuck with 2 liquor glasses as decided was too difficult to drink the chocolate and cherry liquor we bought back from Poland in the kitchen glasses we have .
Was also so excited by sun shining this morning (been a bit dreary last few days) that when walked back from gym, decided to do a circuit of Leith Links before ventured back inside. Is difficult to stay inside when sun actually shines here. Recognise some of the early morning dogs now - favourite is a cocker spaniel with a feather duster tail who I see trotting back from Leith Links with his favourite hollow frisbee in his mouth. The dogs love Leith Links. We also went for a walk around Leith Links after dinner last night - the best sun of the day is often from 7.30pm onwards. Could have worn sunglasses.
The gym has been refurbished in my absence. Lots of shiny new weights and some strange black box with thick ropes attached. You grab the ropes as best I can tell, stand back holding ropes and flick them towards the box in wave like motions. Looks ridiculous. Am told by Sydney based adviser from Martin Street that it is a full body high intensity thing. I kid you not. Told son and heir the other day that I was developing a Scottish accent. He asked if that meant I couldn't understand myself then. No respect.
We visited my favourite pub from past visits called the Cafe Royal. It is smaller than the Standing Order pub and is decorated with artworks made of ceramic tiles from Royal Doulton, depicting celebrated inventors and scientists like Stephenson and Watt. I think it is a pretty classy place. Read that Edinburgh has more licensed premises than any other part of Scotland. Thought Glasgow would have beaten them to it. Saw another funny pub name today - "All Bar One". Sydney really has to lift its game.
Been doing some shopping while sales are on. We visited a place called Livingstone (about 30 mins west of Edinburgh) as were told it has an outlet store and we were curious. Was expecting Birkenhead and got about 4/5 times that size. It was massive. We were suffering from shopping fatigue before we finished with the first building. Stephen got a coat (his second one for the trip I must say - given luggage restrictions he will now be wearing 2 coats onto the plane going home) and we found a nice shirt for Will. I bought nothing but did make up for it today.
Stephen has headed off fishing today as has located a loch that is only 30-40 mins drive from here. Sent him on his way this morning with all his equipment. It is actually lovely and sunny today but was told that is not ideal for catching trout - something to do with the trout being able to see you better with the sun or it glints on....things. Given the vagaries of Scottish weather I think you just fish whenever there isn't a howling gale. I did a dash to the shops as the sales are ending. Very sneaky of them before most tourists arrive. I may have bought a few items of clothing and given weight restrictions on luggage, I too may be wearing home a strange combination of clothing flung around my body.
We also used the car to visit a place called Granton. Never heard of it? Me neither. But it does have a fishing mega store. Stephen in ecstasy. It does also have a huge harbour - part of the waterfront along the Firth of Forth so funny why Leith is so well known and this place isn't. It became part of Edinburgh after WWII and actually had a more useful harbour than Leith due to tidal flows etc. Unlike Leith though was no long standing settlement or village there (Edinburgh basically was a series of villages that eventually all joined together). Rows of tenement houses for the workers. Even had a castle at one stage but certainly doesn't appear in any tourist brochures. Not that I am recommending a visit. Basically an old industrial area - some cute houses, bigger ones up the hill and a huge fishing mega store.
Discovered that Edinburgh is also famous for having one of the world's worst poets. I have come across him a few times. There is a pub named after him (naturally) called "The Captain's Bar" as he lived his last few years above the bar. His name was William Topaz McGonagall and he also got a mention in the Guardian literature review this week so I assume the poet in question who was reviewed, was not thought highly of. His poems are widely regarded as some of the worst in English literature - his only understanding of poetry was that it needed to rhyme. Amused myself last night googling him. He also thought that he was a talented actor and played Macbeth in one production but was so bad he had to pay the theatre to put the play on and when he believed the actor playing Macduff was trying to upstage him; McGonagall just refused to die. I am late to the party as Spike Milligan and Peter Sellers had a character called McGoonagall; Monty Python featured a McGonagall - esque poet and the Harry Potter books have a Professor McGonagall.
We got back to Stockbridge this week and visited George Bower - the butcher with the animal heads in his shop. Stephen bought some game to make a game stew so got to watch Wimbledon one rainy afternoon, smelling a delicious game stew cooking on the cooktop. He has been cooking some impressive meals. We also purchased 2 little liquor glasses at a charity shop at Stockbridge for a total of one pound. Stockbridge has an impressive number of charity shops for reasons that escape me. The shop we visited had some rather nice things including some Italian Art Deco style demitasse coffee cups. Anyway stuck with 2 liquor glasses as decided was too difficult to drink the chocolate and cherry liquor we bought back from Poland in the kitchen glasses we have .
Was also so excited by sun shining this morning (been a bit dreary last few days) that when walked back from gym, decided to do a circuit of Leith Links before ventured back inside. Is difficult to stay inside when sun actually shines here. Recognise some of the early morning dogs now - favourite is a cocker spaniel with a feather duster tail who I see trotting back from Leith Links with his favourite hollow frisbee in his mouth. The dogs love Leith Links. We also went for a walk around Leith Links after dinner last night - the best sun of the day is often from 7.30pm onwards. Could have worn sunglasses.
The gym has been refurbished in my absence. Lots of shiny new weights and some strange black box with thick ropes attached. You grab the ropes as best I can tell, stand back holding ropes and flick them towards the box in wave like motions. Looks ridiculous. Am told by Sydney based adviser from Martin Street that it is a full body high intensity thing. I kid you not. Told son and heir the other day that I was developing a Scottish accent. He asked if that meant I couldn't understand myself then. No respect.
Friday, 7 July 2017
3-7 July
Just spent a few days in Krakow, Poland. Our first impression was that it reminded us very much of Vilnius, capital of Lithuania, which we visited last year. Similar architecture. Not surprising given Poland and Lithuania were the one "Commonwealth"" at one stage. If we ever attend a trivia night that focuses on the Hanseatic League and/or Baltic States, I think we would cream it. Did enjoy Krakow. Very pretty city in a similar way that Riga and Tallinn are (Vilnius less so as poorer). Favourite place was probably the old market square - the current layout having been set out in 1257. Large Catholic church - St Mary's in the square as is a much smaller one and a Cloth Hall - old merchants building that now houses museums and lots of tourist ""tat"". All around the edge of the square are shops and restaurants - mainly restaurants. Great people watching place. The weather was lovely so we spent a bit of time sipping on drinks, eating gelato and enjoying the passing parade. Lots of European tourists. It is pretty inexpensive for Western Europeans and Americans so very popular place. A local told us that Krakow is however expensive for them. Their wages must not be great.
Our hotel was a family run smaller hotel just outside the old city which was interesting because you had to step outside of the tourist bubble that is in the old city. Not far out but far enough to see that a lot of Krakow is still comprised of run down buildings - reminded us of many old Eastern Bloc countries we have visited at other times. Krakow is very geared towards the wealthy tourists - you basically pay for everything and there are touts everywhere looking for business. Having said that it felt like a very safe place - large number of police around all the time and people very friendly.
There is the obligatory castle on the hill overlooking the old city. Not so easy to visit inside as so many people around and visits are only for certain times plus you sometimes have to take a tour to see certain parts. Ended up opting for visiting the State Apartments. The castle complex is really a combination of a number of buildings - all confusing. The State Apartments were interesting - full of old Belgian tapestries from the 1500's and paintings of members of the Vasa royal family. The Vasa references confused us as we came across the Vasa in Sweden. Then remembered that the Polish royal family and Swedish royal family were related at one stage - didn't stop them fighting each other though. Was also trying to hypothesise why the tapestries - wondering whether it had something to do with the Hapsburgs who ruled both here and in the Netherlands. Nope. Tapestries were just a result of one King Sigismund II Augustus (love the name) who was a spendthrift and spent much of the country's money on expensive tapestries (and various other paintings and sculptures). I over thought the whole thing. Tapestries were stunning though as you could still see the gold threads.
We did our own walking tour of Kazimierz - the old Jewish Quarter. The area was abandoned and very run down until the 1990's. A lot of money has been spent here although still not a huge amount to see other than various synagogues and many Jewish American tourists being shown around. Sounds a bit cynical on my part but is really not a lot there. Perhaps most interesting was a central marketplace -Plac Nowy - basically a flea market selling everything from old nazi helmets, uniforms and ID cards to Jewish memorabilia, Catholic memorabilia and lots of coffee cups (?). Quite an eclectic collection. The old town also sells all these wooden Jewish figures - Jewish men wearing prayer shawls clutching the Torah etc. Assume is to sell to Jewish tourists. Thought was a bit odd.
Loved the food here - similar to Hungarian. We tried Perogi (dumplings) - good hearty food which if I ate every night would result in me quickly resembling a dumpling. Stephen got to eat herrings so was very happy and they have the best gelato. Remembered the best gelato shop in Crows Nest used to be run by a Polish family. They have a talent for it. Stephen also discovered Polish chocolate and vodka, a sample of both accompanied us home.
Doing my usual hunt around the internet I discovered Poland is now the most homogenous nation in the EU (maybe Europe). Was not surprised based on own observations. An article I read said it was ""determinedly homogenous, racially and religiously."" Apparently a result of WWII including the loss of territories with various different ethnic groups all exiting Poland.
We braved Auschwitz on our last day. Think my jaw was clenched throughout the entire tour. We were both effected by it in different ways. Stephen could not get over the size of the operation and wandering around on a lovely sunny day - he kept looking up at the blue sky imagining the people trapped in there, also perhaps looking up at a similar sky. I found the cattle train, train tracks, gas chamber (you can walk into one) and photos of Hungarian Jews arriving, confronting and when the guide read out the names of some people whose names were written on suitcases you could see, you held your breath hoping that you did not recognise a name. Also sped through a lot of the items left by the people exterminated - not the sort of thing you want to spend a lot of time looking at. Felt to me a bit like going to a funeral. Lots of Israelis there and our guide (who was young - in her 20's) was Jewish. No idea how you could run these tours. Was prepared for some odd behaviour too - people (not many) - were taking selfies. Our guide had to speak to one woman who was taking a smiling selfie in front of the famous entrance gates, telling her to please stop. Both glad we went but would not ever re-visit.
After that we enjoyed dinner in a very nice calm restaurant in the old city that Stephen had located. Very nice meal including some very nice Italian wine and a chocolate liquor that is not our usual drink but is some Polish speciality and went well with the desserts we both thought we needed to have. Did enjoy Krakow but would be a one-visit place I think. We think we have been on ""all the rides"" as Stephen says.
Our hotel was a family run smaller hotel just outside the old city which was interesting because you had to step outside of the tourist bubble that is in the old city. Not far out but far enough to see that a lot of Krakow is still comprised of run down buildings - reminded us of many old Eastern Bloc countries we have visited at other times. Krakow is very geared towards the wealthy tourists - you basically pay for everything and there are touts everywhere looking for business. Having said that it felt like a very safe place - large number of police around all the time and people very friendly.
There is the obligatory castle on the hill overlooking the old city. Not so easy to visit inside as so many people around and visits are only for certain times plus you sometimes have to take a tour to see certain parts. Ended up opting for visiting the State Apartments. The castle complex is really a combination of a number of buildings - all confusing. The State Apartments were interesting - full of old Belgian tapestries from the 1500's and paintings of members of the Vasa royal family. The Vasa references confused us as we came across the Vasa in Sweden. Then remembered that the Polish royal family and Swedish royal family were related at one stage - didn't stop them fighting each other though. Was also trying to hypothesise why the tapestries - wondering whether it had something to do with the Hapsburgs who ruled both here and in the Netherlands. Nope. Tapestries were just a result of one King Sigismund II Augustus (love the name) who was a spendthrift and spent much of the country's money on expensive tapestries (and various other paintings and sculptures). I over thought the whole thing. Tapestries were stunning though as you could still see the gold threads.
We did our own walking tour of Kazimierz - the old Jewish Quarter. The area was abandoned and very run down until the 1990's. A lot of money has been spent here although still not a huge amount to see other than various synagogues and many Jewish American tourists being shown around. Sounds a bit cynical on my part but is really not a lot there. Perhaps most interesting was a central marketplace -Plac Nowy - basically a flea market selling everything from old nazi helmets, uniforms and ID cards to Jewish memorabilia, Catholic memorabilia and lots of coffee cups (?). Quite an eclectic collection. The old town also sells all these wooden Jewish figures - Jewish men wearing prayer shawls clutching the Torah etc. Assume is to sell to Jewish tourists. Thought was a bit odd.
Loved the food here - similar to Hungarian. We tried Perogi (dumplings) - good hearty food which if I ate every night would result in me quickly resembling a dumpling. Stephen got to eat herrings so was very happy and they have the best gelato. Remembered the best gelato shop in Crows Nest used to be run by a Polish family. They have a talent for it. Stephen also discovered Polish chocolate and vodka, a sample of both accompanied us home.
Doing my usual hunt around the internet I discovered Poland is now the most homogenous nation in the EU (maybe Europe). Was not surprised based on own observations. An article I read said it was ""determinedly homogenous, racially and religiously."" Apparently a result of WWII including the loss of territories with various different ethnic groups all exiting Poland.
We braved Auschwitz on our last day. Think my jaw was clenched throughout the entire tour. We were both effected by it in different ways. Stephen could not get over the size of the operation and wandering around on a lovely sunny day - he kept looking up at the blue sky imagining the people trapped in there, also perhaps looking up at a similar sky. I found the cattle train, train tracks, gas chamber (you can walk into one) and photos of Hungarian Jews arriving, confronting and when the guide read out the names of some people whose names were written on suitcases you could see, you held your breath hoping that you did not recognise a name. Also sped through a lot of the items left by the people exterminated - not the sort of thing you want to spend a lot of time looking at. Felt to me a bit like going to a funeral. Lots of Israelis there and our guide (who was young - in her 20's) was Jewish. No idea how you could run these tours. Was prepared for some odd behaviour too - people (not many) - were taking selfies. Our guide had to speak to one woman who was taking a smiling selfie in front of the famous entrance gates, telling her to please stop. Both glad we went but would not ever re-visit.
After that we enjoyed dinner in a very nice calm restaurant in the old city that Stephen had located. Very nice meal including some very nice Italian wine and a chocolate liquor that is not our usual drink but is some Polish speciality and went well with the desserts we both thought we needed to have. Did enjoy Krakow but would be a one-visit place I think. We think we have been on ""all the rides"" as Stephen says.
Sunday, 2 July 2017
28 June-2 July
4 days in Edinburgh before head off to Krakow. Edinburgh turned on cold and rain and we turned on the heaters for the first 2 days. Our main heating - radiators - are controlled from upstairs and that is thermostat driven. Made we wonder if you ever turn off the central heating in Edinburgh. Probably not. Weather suited us as did not mind staying inside to catch up on washing, work for me and SA staring at spreadsheets which thank goodness he does not mind doing. I get a gold star for dedication by venturing out in an anorak Friday morning to visit the pool. At times you have to be dedicated to get some exercise.
And then our luck turned and the sun returned. We re-walked the Restalrig track - an old train path near home and excitedly discovered an even better coffee place near us called Printworks. Assume was old printing place. Coffee even better than at the Bad Tempered Baker. Will have to slink past them from now on. Bit like changing hairdressers.
Actually on one of the rainy days we ventured into town as noticed summer sales had started and SA had his eye on a jacket. Did eventually get one for him of course not on sale but not before we first detoured to bag shop for me. Not sure how that happened. Anyway after dripping wet we decided a pint (and half pint) was in order so we visited The Standing Order which was conveniently near the jacket shop. I discovered a new favourite cider - something called Thistle Cross Cider which has a hint of strawberry. Eschewed the one with whisky as that was 7% alcohol and not sure about cider and whisky. We agreed that the pubs are much better than at home - at the very least they have more interesting names and generally a more interesting history. I like the ""Kings Wark"" down at Leith only because ""wark"" is such a strange word. I think it is Scots for ""building"" and it is located where James 1 built the original Kings Wark in 1438 - set of buildings to get trade going down at the Leith port. ""The Last Drop"" is also good - being where convicted criminals had their last wee dram of whisky before being executed down at the Grassmarket. Cheery thought. ""The Worlds End"" is situated where the main gateway into the city once stood and where a toll had to be paid. It commemorates the fact that many citizens were unable to pay the toll to re-enter, so they never left the city.
Also made the most of the sun by walking into town on Sunday and re-visiting the Portrait Gallery. Seeing things before all those tourists arrive! Discovered Sir Henry Raeburn this time. Had heard of him and then remembered the Skating Minister in the National Gallery that he may have done. His portraits remind me of some Spanish artists as there is a brooding darkness about them. Surprised myself with my perspicacity as then read somewhere that he has been likened to Velazquez - scary. Anyway he was Scottish born and bred, probably largely self-taught and rarely ventured out of Scotland. Also lucky to be painting when some pretty impressive people were around like Sir Walter Scott so lots of interesting subjects to paint. There was also a mixed media exhibition consisting of a Jamaican man singing the words of a Robbie Burns poem - The Slaves Lament and the music was a mixture of reggae and traditional classical music. The whole thing was filmed and was just playing on an endless loop. Pretty impressive. Not sure why Robbie Burns was writing about slavery - sounds like he was an interesting man. We also went back through the portraits of the usual array of kings, queens and assorted hanger-ons. Completely confused again as to who was king when, who bumped off who and when and why. Give up. They were all Marys, James' and Charles' until they became Hanoverian and George's were in favour. That's my version.
Lastly there was an exhibition on the male image. Basically portraits of men from Van Dyck to Lucian Freud and how the male image has changed/varied over time. Interesting although did not really say anything too new as I think the fact men used to wear wigs, frills and high heels in the 16th century and that this would be considered less usual today is pretty well established. I did like one portrait in particular. It was painted just 4 years before Pride and Prejudice was published apparently and the young man in the painting was said to perfectly reflect the look of the men who J Austen wrote about. In particular the young man has come to be associated with Mr Darcy - the image has appeared on numerous editions of the book. It is something called ""Portrait of a Man"" by Francois - Xavier Fabre who does not however sound very English to me. Did look very like the Mr Darcy's that have appeared in screen/TV adaptations so I suppose there is something there.
Back home to pack for Poland. Took me about 5 minutes as got it pretty down pat now. Crazy early flight though - 6:40am. At least being Summer the sun will be well and truly up.
And then our luck turned and the sun returned. We re-walked the Restalrig track - an old train path near home and excitedly discovered an even better coffee place near us called Printworks. Assume was old printing place. Coffee even better than at the Bad Tempered Baker. Will have to slink past them from now on. Bit like changing hairdressers.
Actually on one of the rainy days we ventured into town as noticed summer sales had started and SA had his eye on a jacket. Did eventually get one for him of course not on sale but not before we first detoured to bag shop for me. Not sure how that happened. Anyway after dripping wet we decided a pint (and half pint) was in order so we visited The Standing Order which was conveniently near the jacket shop. I discovered a new favourite cider - something called Thistle Cross Cider which has a hint of strawberry. Eschewed the one with whisky as that was 7% alcohol and not sure about cider and whisky. We agreed that the pubs are much better than at home - at the very least they have more interesting names and generally a more interesting history. I like the ""Kings Wark"" down at Leith only because ""wark"" is such a strange word. I think it is Scots for ""building"" and it is located where James 1 built the original Kings Wark in 1438 - set of buildings to get trade going down at the Leith port. ""The Last Drop"" is also good - being where convicted criminals had their last wee dram of whisky before being executed down at the Grassmarket. Cheery thought. ""The Worlds End"" is situated where the main gateway into the city once stood and where a toll had to be paid. It commemorates the fact that many citizens were unable to pay the toll to re-enter, so they never left the city.
Also made the most of the sun by walking into town on Sunday and re-visiting the Portrait Gallery. Seeing things before all those tourists arrive! Discovered Sir Henry Raeburn this time. Had heard of him and then remembered the Skating Minister in the National Gallery that he may have done. His portraits remind me of some Spanish artists as there is a brooding darkness about them. Surprised myself with my perspicacity as then read somewhere that he has been likened to Velazquez - scary. Anyway he was Scottish born and bred, probably largely self-taught and rarely ventured out of Scotland. Also lucky to be painting when some pretty impressive people were around like Sir Walter Scott so lots of interesting subjects to paint. There was also a mixed media exhibition consisting of a Jamaican man singing the words of a Robbie Burns poem - The Slaves Lament and the music was a mixture of reggae and traditional classical music. The whole thing was filmed and was just playing on an endless loop. Pretty impressive. Not sure why Robbie Burns was writing about slavery - sounds like he was an interesting man. We also went back through the portraits of the usual array of kings, queens and assorted hanger-ons. Completely confused again as to who was king when, who bumped off who and when and why. Give up. They were all Marys, James' and Charles' until they became Hanoverian and George's were in favour. That's my version.
Lastly there was an exhibition on the male image. Basically portraits of men from Van Dyck to Lucian Freud and how the male image has changed/varied over time. Interesting although did not really say anything too new as I think the fact men used to wear wigs, frills and high heels in the 16th century and that this would be considered less usual today is pretty well established. I did like one portrait in particular. It was painted just 4 years before Pride and Prejudice was published apparently and the young man in the painting was said to perfectly reflect the look of the men who J Austen wrote about. In particular the young man has come to be associated with Mr Darcy - the image has appeared on numerous editions of the book. It is something called ""Portrait of a Man"" by Francois - Xavier Fabre who does not however sound very English to me. Did look very like the Mr Darcy's that have appeared in screen/TV adaptations so I suppose there is something there.
Back home to pack for Poland. Took me about 5 minutes as got it pretty down pat now. Crazy early flight though - 6:40am. At least being Summer the sun will be well and truly up.
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