As part of my cunning back up plan to become an Edinburgh tour guide I added to my knowledge by visiting a few more historic sites. Mostly without Stephen, as he has been making the most of having a car and has headed off fishing when I have been doing my tourist bit. Fishing seems to be a tricky thing. One day had to be aborted before a line was even cast due to the high winds. And sometimes as already mentioned, too much sun is no good. Anyway today (the 24th) he has ventured further afield to Perthshire as got a tip from a friend on another fishing spot not too far away. Hopefully he will have some success. Perthshire is very pretty anyway and today is a lovely sunny day.
While Stephen has been away I have re-visited Holyrood. Last time we went there it was pouring and freezing cold. This time it was sunny and mild. Much better, as also got to see the gardens and Holyrood Chapel or ye old ruined Chapel. Took the audio option this time which was worth it. Now better understand the different parts of the Palace. Saw where Mary Queen of Scots lived and is now obvious to me how it is a much older part of the Palace'. Even saw where her ''evil'' second husband Lord Darley killed her secretary in 1566 in a fit of jealousy - stabbed 56 times (or so the audio said). Anyway even with a degree of cynicism as to how much artistic licence is taken with describing these types of events, is always quite spooky to imagine that someone like Mary Q lived here at one stage. Found out another random fact. The Kings Bedchamber where there was the usual grand four poster bed was not really the Kings bedroom in baroque times. The King actually slept in a smaller bed in another less grand room. The grandly decorated bedchambers were for entertaining and impressing dignitaries. Not sure why you would want to impress people with your bedding. Also learnt that Louise XVI's brother escaped here from the French Revolution. Aside from running away from the guillotine he was apparently bankrupt and Holyrood Chapel offered a sanctuary for debtors. At its height there were hundreds of bankrupt people encamped near the chapel. And Louise's brother eventually returned to France and became Charles X. Saw where the current Queen entertains. Clearly very much a working Palace still. The grounds are also impressive as Arthurs Seat is in its backyard.
Also added to my knowledge about art and went to an exhibition on ''Beyond Caravaggio'' at the National Gallery. Very enjoyable. Paintings both by Caravaggio and artists who were inspired/influenced by him. Caravaggio's paintings were the stand outs for me. The paintings seem to extend out of their frames. Apparently he employed tricks used by photographers like unusual viewpoints and cropped figures pressed against the frames. It works. He was also an interesting and not particularly friendly character - being known to beat up his rivals and eventually having to flee as he committed a murder. One writer said that in comparing him to Rembrandt - Rembrandt makes things real in order to speak our language while Caravaggio does it to scare you out of your wits. Thought was most apt. Anyway another artist to add to my list of must see more of their works.
We have also managed to be sociable and had dinner down at Stockbridge with some friends who live in Edinburgh and nearby. Have not forgotten how to talk to other people so that is good. Also had a friends son over for dinner as he now líves in Glasgow. Was interesting chatting to an intelligent 27 year old to hear what he makes of the UK political scene. Seems to be continuing support for the Labor party among the younger voters. Stephen cooked some delicious slow cooked beef ribs - bought from our local butcher. Also discovered local second bookshop that sells some books out the front for 50p each. Have grabbed a few as are now reading more.
And also got to something called the Real Mary Close and The Georgian House. Complete contrasts. The Real Mary Close is a historic close from the 16 and 17th centuries in the old town (medieval part) which now lies underneath some Government offices on the Royal Mile. Basically a series of small streets with tenement houses on either side. The tenements were around 8 stories high, built on a slope. Due to the descent of the close some buildings were demolished down to their foundations, while at the bottom of the hill, whole houses were buried in tact. The City Chambers sit on top of it. Last resident left in the early 1900's. It was only opened as a tourist attraction in 2003 so they are still discovering things. Living conditions were not great. In one house (3 rooms - which was luxury), part of the original ceiling is in tact - lath and plaster and the rooms are meant to be haunted. Some little girl is meant to appear and people leave her dolls to play with. Bit creepy. Also a bit touristy but worth it just to get the chance to walk into these old houses and closes. And they were not all poor people who lived here. If you lived in Edinburgh before the New Town was built; this is where you resided.
By contrast also visited an old Georgian house in Charlotte Square. This is in the New Town. Built so the wealthier inhabitants of Edinburgh could escape from having to live in the Old Town. If you had money; you left the Old Town. First owner bought this particular place in 1796. Is now a National Trust property and was really well done. The place has been set up to show how a Georgian family would have lived, including the servants quarters and volunteers in each room with information sheets to answer questions. Surprisingly good and informative rather than just a tourist attraction. Charlotte Square was a prestigious address and they lived somewhat better than those in the Real Mary Close. Interestingly was initially landed gentry who lived here but as they ran out of money (heaven forbid they work) and had no more properties to sell - the middle class and professionals moved in like Doctors and Lawyers. Still a nice part of town - mainly commercial tenants in the buildings around the square now - banks and Government offices. Nicola Sturgeon's official residence is in a house that fronts this square.
And finished off my sights with a visit to St Cuthberts Church which is right near Charlotte Square. This is heading to the west end, which I do not know as well. Stumbled onto the graveyard and did not realise its location until I glanced up and saw Castle Rock with the castle perched on it; soaring above me. Thought that was worth a photo. Most of these graveyards claim to hold gravestones of various famous people, none of whom I can ever seem to find. However without even looking, this time I found a grave with the words "Sir Henry Raeburn"on it. Some famous Scottish artist I have discovered this trip. Checked when I returned and yep he was buried there. I wont be so dismissive in the future regarding 'the location of famous people's tombstones.
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