Just spent a few days in Krakow, Poland. Our first impression was that it reminded us very much of Vilnius, capital of Lithuania, which we visited last year. Similar architecture. Not surprising given Poland and Lithuania were the one "Commonwealth"" at one stage. If we ever attend a trivia night that focuses on the Hanseatic League and/or Baltic States, I think we would cream it. Did enjoy Krakow. Very pretty city in a similar way that Riga and Tallinn are (Vilnius less so as poorer). Favourite place was probably the old market square - the current layout having been set out in 1257. Large Catholic church - St Mary's in the square as is a much smaller one and a Cloth Hall - old merchants building that now houses museums and lots of tourist ""tat"". All around the edge of the square are shops and restaurants - mainly restaurants. Great people watching place. The weather was lovely so we spent a bit of time sipping on drinks, eating gelato and enjoying the passing parade. Lots of European tourists. It is pretty inexpensive for Western Europeans and Americans so very popular place. A local told us that Krakow is however expensive for them. Their wages must not be great.
Our hotel was a family run smaller hotel just outside the old city which was interesting because you had to step outside of the tourist bubble that is in the old city. Not far out but far enough to see that a lot of Krakow is still comprised of run down buildings - reminded us of many old Eastern Bloc countries we have visited at other times. Krakow is very geared towards the wealthy tourists - you basically pay for everything and there are touts everywhere looking for business. Having said that it felt like a very safe place - large number of police around all the time and people very friendly.
There is the obligatory castle on the hill overlooking the old city. Not so easy to visit inside as so many people around and visits are only for certain times plus you sometimes have to take a tour to see certain parts. Ended up opting for visiting the State Apartments. The castle complex is really a combination of a number of buildings - all confusing. The State Apartments were interesting - full of old Belgian tapestries from the 1500's and paintings of members of the Vasa royal family. The Vasa references confused us as we came across the Vasa in Sweden. Then remembered that the Polish royal family and Swedish royal family were related at one stage - didn't stop them fighting each other though. Was also trying to hypothesise why the tapestries - wondering whether it had something to do with the Hapsburgs who ruled both here and in the Netherlands. Nope. Tapestries were just a result of one King Sigismund II Augustus (love the name) who was a spendthrift and spent much of the country's money on expensive tapestries (and various other paintings and sculptures). I over thought the whole thing. Tapestries were stunning though as you could still see the gold threads.
We did our own walking tour of Kazimierz - the old Jewish Quarter. The area was abandoned and very run down until the 1990's. A lot of money has been spent here although still not a huge amount to see other than various synagogues and many Jewish American tourists being shown around. Sounds a bit cynical on my part but is really not a lot there. Perhaps most interesting was a central marketplace -Plac Nowy - basically a flea market selling everything from old nazi helmets, uniforms and ID cards to Jewish memorabilia, Catholic memorabilia and lots of coffee cups (?). Quite an eclectic collection. The old town also sells all these wooden Jewish figures - Jewish men wearing prayer shawls clutching the Torah etc. Assume is to sell to Jewish tourists. Thought was a bit odd.
Loved the food here - similar to Hungarian. We tried Perogi (dumplings) - good hearty food which if I ate every night would result in me quickly resembling a dumpling. Stephen got to eat herrings so was very happy and they have the best gelato. Remembered the best gelato shop in Crows Nest used to be run by a Polish family. They have a talent for it. Stephen also discovered Polish chocolate and vodka, a sample of both accompanied us home.
Doing my usual hunt around the internet I discovered Poland is now the most homogenous nation in the EU (maybe Europe). Was not surprised based on own observations. An article I read said it was ""determinedly homogenous, racially and religiously."" Apparently a result of WWII including the loss of territories with various different ethnic groups all exiting Poland.
We braved Auschwitz on our last day. Think my jaw was clenched throughout the entire tour. We were both effected by it in different ways. Stephen could not get over the size of the operation and wandering around on a lovely sunny day - he kept looking up at the blue sky imagining the people trapped in there, also perhaps looking up at a similar sky. I found the cattle train, train tracks, gas chamber (you can walk into one) and photos of Hungarian Jews arriving, confronting and when the guide read out the names of some people whose names were written on suitcases you could see, you held your breath hoping that you did not recognise a name. Also sped through a lot of the items left by the people exterminated - not the sort of thing you want to spend a lot of time looking at. Felt to me a bit like going to a funeral. Lots of Israelis there and our guide (who was young - in her 20's) was Jewish. No idea how you could run these tours. Was prepared for some odd behaviour too - people (not many) - were taking selfies. Our guide had to speak to one woman who was taking a smiling selfie in front of the famous entrance gates, telling her to please stop. Both glad we went but would not ever re-visit.
After that we enjoyed dinner in a very nice calm restaurant in the old city that Stephen had located. Very nice meal including some very nice Italian wine and a chocolate liquor that is not our usual drink but is some Polish speciality and went well with the desserts we both thought we needed to have. Did enjoy Krakow but would be a one-visit place I think. We think we have been on ""all the rides"" as Stephen says.
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