26-27 June

Just finishing 2 days in Paris. Did something different on the Monday and visited Pere Lachaise- very old cemetery with many famous people buried there and is a lovely leafy cemetery with lots of trees. It has around 1 million people buried there and is about 44 hectares. You can get a map that shows where the graves of the better known people are. Still a bit confusing. Did find Jim Morrison and took a photo of SA in front of it being the closest we had to a flower child. Also saw Edith Piaf and Oscar Wilde. Wildes was strange. Was almost Art Deco looking I guess and had a Perspex barrier around it to stop it being defaced. The Perspex has all these kisses on it from where people have kissed the Perspex. Lots of little mausoleums the size of telephone boxes and some quite beautiful with weeping statues on them. Less austere than the graveyards we have seen in Edinburgh. Also memorials to various victims of wars. After the cemetery we walked to the Canal Saint Martin area. All the guide books say  it is a lovely quirky area with a canal running through it. A typical Audrey  Tatou whimsical movie- Amelie was shot there. Mmm we didn't get it. We endeavoured to find the whimsical part but just couldn't find it. We ended up in a cross between a fairly seedy African/ Chinese part of town. My aunt who is in Paris said she went on the canal a few years back and she thought there was nothing to see. One of her daughters came along with us thinking she must be missing something because she had never found anything interesting there. I don't know where the guide book writers went but we gave up after a while and jumped on the metro. Had very nice dinner in traditional restaurant in Bastille area called Bofinger ( sounds like a James Bond movie).

Day 2 we coincidentally found ourselves in Paris with a friend - Pamela so caught up or coffee. Was good to catch up and see a friend from home. After that we decided to explore the 8th arrondisement. Wandered in and out of shops and after attempting to locate Gallerie Lafayette, found Printemps instead. Decided that would have to do. Summer sales about to start so shop assistants madly rushing around putting different coloured dots on things to signify the discount. There really is no excuse to be badly dressed if you lived in Paris I think but I'm going out on a limb and don't think they are as elegant as they used to be. Some of the young people, which we also noticed in Spain are also disturbingly overweight. A number of the older people still have that French style but I don't think as many of the young people are as stylish. Probably part of the global nature of the world these days.

Dinner with family again tonight and then we farewell them and head back to Scotland for a few days  before our next adventure.

25 June

Going to sneak in one more post for today as just back from the opera and did not want to forget. Saw  La Cenerentola at the Palais Garnier. ( Cinderella). Opera is by Rossini so lots of lovely music- recognised a lot from Barber of Seville and General Rossini craziness. The Palais Garnier would probably be the most opulent opera house I have been in. Marble, gold, statues everywhere you look. We ended up with a very good view- downstairs about one third of the way back. The stage is huge- read it is the biggest in Europe- over 400 people can apparently be on stage. The gold leaf everywhere and opulence reminded me of the palaces in St Petersburgh. They called it Russian Baroque so I guess this is French baroque.

The production was not the best I have ever seen of a Rossini opera. The staging was ridiculous. The singers had to walk over this somewhat slippery looking rough terrain complete with a trench in the middle. Mind you have also seen some equally crazy stages in Sydney. Enjoyed the singing. The performers were Italian, French, Spanish and Swiss- Belgian. The 'prince' ( Juan Jose De Leon) has sang in the Barber of Seville in Australia. Cinderella also had a very good voice- Teresa Iervolino. I have never seen the opera before and just read a synopsis- aside from the staging, the rest of the production looks to have been pretty faithful to the synopsis. Very enjoyable- even just sitting in the auditorium looking around at the decor and audience was a great experience.

Getting worried I'm becoming too knowledgeable. I quite rightly it turned out explained to SA that the ceiling in the auditorium looked like Chagall and the building looked 1870's with much baroque architecture being evident. Evidentially I have too much time on my hands. Dinner afterwards was in a street called Rue Montorgueil- full of  restaurants, cafes, bakeries etc. SA and I know this street from past trips. It's very lively and Will and SA have been known to purchase the odd chocolate here. Place was packed. People everywhere. Saw a few police around - including at the opera house but not overly evident where we have been so far.

18-25 June

Well we started this week in Edinburgh and am now in Paris. Edinburgh continues to surprise with weather and enjoyed having a week to catch up on not so exciting things like washing and all these English/UK serials we have got addicted to. Some very depressing Irish Catholic series called Cardinal that Stars Sean Bean. Apparently he always dies in the shows he features in so not expecting a happy ending. Also watching an American series called Blacklist- only 78 episodes to go. Continuing to enjoy their comedic current affairs shows- they are very funny and clever. Also saw very interesting show on the issue of immigrants. One reporter basically called them some not very nice names and was called out on it for lacking any humanity. Her take was that the elite press were Dr Frankenstein and she was the monster they created. Similar issues to home but the UK seem about 6-12 months ahead of us in the way the media deals with issues. Bit unsettling how some parts of the media are appealing to people's baser instincts and enjoy stirring up trouble.

Arrived via metro to hotel in Paris. Easy trip as no large bags to carry. Large metro near hotel and armed guards in army uniform and Syrian refugees holding up signs asking for help. Also saw families sitting in street- with signs saying they are Syrian refugees. If they are this far north can just imagine what other European countries must be like. Very sad.

Large number of tourists here, especially Americans. I gather the US dollar is doing well so no surprise. We are in the 8th arrondisement. Nice area. Walked into a local park this morning- Parc Monceau. Full of Parisians enjoying the sunshine. The park was established by a cousin of Louis XVI- very wealthy and even though said he was a republican, no one believed him and he lost his head in 1793. The park is full of these follys-an Egyptian pyramid, Roman collanade etc. and of course being Europe, at one stage the park was the site of a massacre of Communards when the Paris Communards was crushed in the 1870's. It's unusual as was based on the style of an English garden. Was not so keen to be here but it still is quite a beautiful city. Walked back from the left bank last night after dinner with family and people everywhere. Difficult to resist not taking many photos. People here seem defiant- they are going to keep going out and enjoying themselves, regardless of resident lunatics and random acts of violence. Out to opera this afternoon but lunch first with family.

16-17 June

16 June was a travel day from Toledo to Madrid to Edinburgh. A few trains, bus and a plane trip later landed in Edinburgh.  Much much cooler.  Very much enjoyed Spain. Madrid was pleasanter than we anticipated.  Very easy to get around.  Felt safe and people very friendly.  Food was great - lovely and fresh and loved the flamboyance of the people - their clothing, the jewellery etc and the lifestyle.  Also really enjoyed the art we saw - the Prado is probably better than I was expecting.  Well thought out explanations of the art work and no photos allowed.  Brilliant.  So annoyed by the people who never look at the artwork and just stand there  photographing or videoing them.  Crazy.  Very classy city.  Also really enjoyed Toledo.  The history is fascinating. So dark in many ways with the confrontation between the 3 religions and then the Franco era.  Will have to come back and see the South.

Seems still quite strange, arriving back to our home in Edinburgh from Spain - just 3 hours later.  Anyway Edinburgh has found the sun again so we made the most of it and walked up Arthurs Seat - the giant extinct volcano at one end of the city.  Terrific views of the city and we sat in the sun enjoying some lunch.  Loved watching all the locals and tourists and were rewarded with a pheasant flying past us at a terrific speed.  I thought it was a hawk but SA - ever the intrepid fly fisherman  - recognised the feathers from some fishing flies and advised it was a pheasant.  Stunning looking anyway.

Politics getting ever more complicated here. Large protest outside the Scottish Parliament which we ran into - people marching protesting against the Conservative Government's deal with the DUP (the Irish Unionists) so they can form a government. The DUP are ultra - conservative. The protesters were largely  basically pro-gay and diversity. Lots of rainbow coloured banners. Interestingly a number of companies such as major banks and their employees there and some had rainbow coloured flags inside their offices.  The country does not seem happy.  Lots of news about the Grenfell fire in London as well.  Theresa May booed when she turned up there. What a mess. Have continued my buying of various UK papers.  Onto the Guardian today.  Definitely not buying The Sun again - not even for the TV Guide.  Just can't do it.

No tapas tonight. Sigh. Will be enjoying a Tesco chicken and fresh vegetables however.  They do have very nice fruit and veg.  Bought some lovely looking raspberries.

15 June

Woken by a 21 gun salute as part of Corpus Christi celebrations. Tried to avoid it for a bit so could do some sightseeing before actual procession started. Gave up. All roads seemed to lead to the Procession. Eventually found ourselves alongside one side of the Cathedral watching the parade. Nearly all the women in the procession were wearing white or black (mainly black) mantillas with the high comb (a peinta) . Not sure why some in white and some in black. Thought black was for married women and white for unmarried but did not seem to be quite right . Checked out some websites afterwards as was curious and noone seems to know these days. Essentially you wear what you want it seems. As I am unlikely to convert to Catholicism and start wearing a mantilla, probably not of great importance. The women looked stunning however - very dignified. Also lots of children- the girls wearing very formal white dresses like confirmation dresses and the boys in military type outfits. After the service a small group of horse riders appeared- believe they are part of the Civil Guard and behind them the processional cross was carried. Some of the horse riders wore hats that look like what a matador wears. All fascinating to us. Apparently they have been doing this procession since 1418. Loved looking at the women in particular in their black lace dresses with the mantillas and often fanning themselves with lace fans. Could have been in medieval times. Should have brought my fan from home. The women and even some men use fans to cool themselves- thought was only a tourist thing but clearly not. Wandered to Jewish sector after procession and passed an old monastery on the way- the Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes. Also walked through only structure that remains from Muslim period- the Cambron Gate. Then onto San Martin bridge- a medieval bridge across the river Tagus. The Jewish sector had little Jewish symbols in blue tiles on the cobbled road to signify was old Jewish sector. Quite sad I thought. Are some synagogues and a mosque elsewhere but all now Catholic Churches. The Moorish influences in particular on the buildings is very clear. Quite beautiful really especially some of the tile work. Heat continues apace - high 30's. We exited to hotel by 3pm as just unbearable by then. SA has had some successful using the 'maps me' application on his iPad to navigate us around. We still tend to wander in circles a bit as very confusing layout. Lovely salad for lunch. Curious but they have a lot of fish. Their salads often have tuna in them and calamari/squid is very popular. We're not sure why given we are nowhere near the sea. Not complaining though. Finished day with another lovely tapas meal. Cheated and went back to same restaurant. Waiter recognised us and this time when we ordered drinks we got a small plate of green olives -just like the locals. We must have passed some secret test. More tapas for dinner. Lovely fresh salad, a cold soup dish - like a gazpacho and some calarmari. The helpings are large so that was enough washed down with a beer and wine. Would like to come back here for another day lovely just wandering around. Would like to have gotten to see one of the old mosques and synagogues out of interest. Oh and after deciding buying a knife was a stupid idea, we bought a paring knife. SA could not resist. Going to have to book a bag in tomorrow - that is not going through the cabin bags security check.

10-14 June

Hola! One night in Madrid and already fluent in Spanish. Had fun day in Leith before flew to Spain (we flew to Spain on the 11th). Very nice lunch at a restaurant called Onedin seafood restaurant on George IV Bridge. Enjoyed some lovely mussels in broth and SA enjoyed some cod, a fish he does not eat at home. Visiting cousin sampled some Loch Fynne oysters. All agreed was very good. We then went to the Leith Fair which was on the Leith Links across the road. Favourite part was just wandering around enjoying the community feel. My latest semi- formed view is that this part of Leith is like Glebe. Second favourite part was seeing some owls and hawks;- some sort of wildlife rescue group. Fascinating birds. Went home to pack a few very light summer clothes for Madrid. There are a few things I prefer about living in Australia but one very big advantage of living in Europe is that it took us just under 3 hours to fly to Madrid and that was flying into a headwind. Each packed a small bag, wheeled them onto our easy jet flight and a very short while later, we are in a very different culture. Even the plane trip heralded a change- from reticent Scots to much louder Spaniards. Have two and a half & days in Madrid. Enjoyed a big seafood paella for our first dinner in Madrid at a restaurant with a strange picture of a devil split in half holding a cooking pot. Not sure but food great. Forgot how little English is spoken compared to say Italy and France. Should have brought little language book but am sure will manage. Already taken by architecture. Filigree balconies everywhere, giant fountains in the middle of intersections with roads running off them. Impressive statues of men on horseback with ruff collars. Lots of people out walking before dinner. We managed to wait until 8 for dinner but of course too early for locals. Booked a walking tour for first full day. Feels too short a time for a visit but suspect in part this is due to contrast with oddles of time in Edinburgh. Just finished first full day in Madrid. I learnt from our walking tour that the Hapsburgs ruled Spain for some time- 1500-1700s until they inbred themselves to extinction and the French Bourbon Kings took over. Our walking tour took us through Hapsburg Madrid basically. Saw their main Cathedral that took some 100 years to finish- guide said Spaniards don't like to rush. Also saw the Royal Palace that is apparently the largest in Europe- well has the most rooms. Basically nothing medieval remaining or from the time of the Moors we were told. Were shown a piece of land alongside the cathedral where there was a fountain in the shape of the Star of David, above which is the only surviving section of the city wall from when the Moors ruled and looming above these 2 is the Cathedral. Guide said that all 3 religions lived relatively peacefully under the Moors but the Catholic Church was not happy with this arrangement and decided was a good idea to throw out the Jews and Moors and take charge. Possibly somewhat simplistic but it was only a 3 hour tour that took in a lot. Lucky for me though as Grandmother's family would never have found their way east if hadn't been thrown out. The guide also said no one talks about the Franco era. It was interesting that could find no tourist things about the Franco era as you can in Berlin re. Hitler etc. People were just expected to transition peacefully to democracy and forget the past. People who lost relatives and friends have not been able to find out what happened to them and there are most likely mass graves around, the location of which is not publicised. The guide was also scathing about the level of corruption in government. She was pretty young so given the 50% unemployment rate for young people recently- not surprising she was cynical. Many interpretations of history are of course possible but always interesting to get a locals take on things. Love the street signs- there is the street name with an illustration in a lovely looking tile eg 'Elbow Street' had a picture of an elbow. After tour went to Reina Sofia Museum to see Picasso's Guernica. A giant picture where everyone just stands in silence to stare and absorb it. Very moving painting. Also saw some other Picassos and snuck in some Salvador Dali and Joan Miro. I like the surrealists- so clever and bizarre at the same time. Were going to large city park - Retiro-to sit in shade but in classic tourist style couldn't find entrance. Could see the greenery tantalisingly close but could only seem to walk parallel to it. After a while we decided we were too tired and hot after 3 hours walking tour and visit to museum, so wandered back to hotel via a bar where we re- hydrated. It's around 38 degrees. Will be returning to Scotland with suntan. Also learnt Madrid much like Canberra- formed because of strategic location (in middle of country). A made up city. Probably not the best analogy. It came to me after a cider or 2. Also learnt many buildings may look old but are relatively new- early 20th century. Catholic Church did a good job destroying evidence of all that came before. And I suppose Civil War didn't help. Pity. Lots of shops with such colourful clothing and shoes and great jewellery. Very flamboyant. So different to UK. Cars honking horns, having to boldly stride onto pedestrian crossings, assuming the cars will stop. Reminds me of Italy in that way. Loved a place called Plaza Mayor- large square built in 1600's with various uses over time- markets, bull fights, executions. All the usual. Also like new town hall- huge white gothic looking building although built in 20th century. Disturbingly found we are again staying in a hipster neighbourhood. Not sure how we managed it. Anyway Will will be impressed ( or just sigh in a 'hope you did not embarrass yourself' way). Lots of good cafes, bars etc and not very touristy. The street is called Marlasana - think is known as bohemian area. Good but challenging when attempting to order food as lttle English spoken. No disasters yet. And lots of legs of ham around. And cakes . Madrid likes its food. Had lovely crispy bread with ham and cheese for lunch. Simple but very nice and fresh. Finished the day with tapas. Had calamari, potato dish ( looked like a Spanish scotch egg on a bed of green sauce), fried green tomotoes and a pork dish. Delicious. Sorry Scotland but we agreed on a not so random survey of the 2 of us- Spanish food leaves Scottish food for dead. Second day in Madrid- tried the metro to get to Prado Museum. Easy. Had plan of attack for museum as is vast. Read somewhere to concentrate on Spanish painters so sought out El Greco, Goya and Velasquez. Also viewed some Dutch and Italians.- some Ruben and van dyke and something called 'The Garden of Earthly Delights' by Hieronymous Bosch. Very strange surrealist triptych but painted in 1500's. Esp. taken with El Greco and Goya- very dark ( in style and sometimes content). Had siesta and then visited Salamanca area in afternoon. Upmarket area. Lovely apartments, shops with usual name brands and great deli/ cafe called Mercado ( thanks Cherry). Had another great tapas dinner. Even waited until 9pm to eat. Daring.Enjoyed Madrid more than anticipating. Felt very safe- Safer than Paris or Rome. Relaxed and very pleasant place, great museums and friendly people. Then today ( 14th) caught fast train to Toledo. Easy trip- only 30mins. Toledo is predictably very pretty. Many windy cobbled streets. Definitely lots of medieval architecture here. No idea where we are most of the time- streets very confusing. Visited their huge impressive Cathedral. Spent about an hour there. Many different styles- baroque and gothic with a bit of Muslim influences ( was built on top of a mosque) and a bit of Judaism. We took the audio option- definitely worthwhile. Spain is still so religious in many ways, is necessary to listen to all the religious stories/explanations to get a feel for the culture. We have inadvertently arrived the day before a huge religious procession- the Corpus Christi. The streets are all decorated with flowers, banners, tapestries and chairs line the streets- all chained together. These are reserved by locals and they are often just their household chairs I assume by the look of them. The houses of Toledo have been emptied of chairs it seems. Hoping to see some of the procession tomorrow- should be interesting. The whole town will be watching or participating, so may as well. Found out that Toledo is famous for steel- lots of knives and swords for sale. Not planning on bringing any through customs although cheese knives do look pretty good. Also known for marzipan. Last year we visited Riga in Estonia and they said they were famous for marzipan. And there is the Italians . What's going on. Someone is telling fibs as to who has the best marzipan. Will have to sample some I fear. Delicious tapas dinner- full of locals. SA did excellent job navigating us there ( and choosing the place). One great thing they do here is spray little bits of water over you from little sprinklers affixed above you in the restaurants. Very refreshing. Don't suppose would be allowed at home.Everyone out walking after we finished dinner. Great fun. People selling balloons and very festive atmosphere - getting ready for tomorrow. And how do those little children stay awake so late? 10pm and they are happily wandering around with families. Practice I guess. Glad staying overnight so can experience the evening atmosphere.

5-9 June

Been a week of politics for the locals.  Woke to news that will be a hung Parliament.  Conservatives trying to form a coalition with an Irish unionists party.  The mind boggles.  How out of touch must the politicians be (and their advisers) to think the Conservatives were going to increase their majority.  The Scottish National Party also did very badly - hopefully Nicola Sturgeon will get the hint that the Scottish majority really don't want another vote on independence.  The country is clearly very fractured.   Met one of our landlords early Friday morning and she said  - well what now?

Been enjoying the current affairs shows.  The journalists are generally much more aggressive to the politicians.  Totally fed up it seems with all politicians refusing to answer their questions and giving ''pat'' answers instead.  Saw hilarious one with Jeremy Corbin who could not answer the questions and the interviewer started calling him out - pointing out that he was checking his ipad, his phone, his written materials and called an adviser, but still couldn't answer the questions.  It's almost as if they have moved on from the patience that Australian journalists (well better quality ones) still show.  Although I guess the UK journalists have always been a bit more aggressive than ours.  Makes interesting viewing if the journalists are good quality.

Caught up with visiting cousin - Eddy and went to dinner at local cafe/restaurant called Nobles.  Good fish and chips dinner.  Weather turned cold and rainy - around 11/12 degrees so jumpers back on.  Can't believe I worried that I would not be wearing fur lined boots.  Visited Holyrood.  Very well maintained and saw a lock of Mary Queen of Scots hair.  Mmmm not sure if similar to some of those authentic religious icons one sees in churches.  Also took Eddy to Cadenheads - authentic whisky shop and got her to taste full strength whisky.  Her face was priceless - she is not a convert and will stick to gin and tonics we believe.  Also took in fudge shop - very good fudge.  Finished with half pint at The Standing Order - old pub in George Street - used to be a bank in 1800's.  Very grand old building.  Bought summer dress (for Madrid where is around 35 degrees).  Not anticipating much use will be made of it in Edinburgh.

Took Eddy for drive in countryside to Perthshire and in particular a giant shopping complex called the "Harrods of the North"(House of Bruar).  She loved it.  Much trying on of clothes and checking out the food on sale.  Some items of clothing may have been bought.  Even Stephen bought a jumper (and showed us the fishing section, including fishing flies).

Had another meal at local restaurant called Cafe Tartine.  Won some best restaurant award in 2016.  Goodness knows what that means.  Was very nice though and we caught up with our Scottish friends, Barbara and David.  Barbara has a very strong west coast accent.  Was pretty funny seeing Eddy trying to follow Barbara's conversation (and vice versa I imagine).  David - who has a softer accent -  found it all pretty funny and said he was enjoying the general confusion.  He has a similar sense of humour to SA.

Going back to The Bad Tempered Baker for coffee this morning.  Taking Eddy there and then off to the Grassmarket to show her some of the old city.  Meeting Barbara for lunch at the Grassmarket.  No doubt general confusion will continue to prevail.

1-4 June

Hoots Mon - I believe that is a greeting over here although never actually heard anyone say it.  Will stick to Hiya.  I like that one.  Very excited, as have found 2 places near home that serve decent coffee.  Favourite would be ""The Bad Tempered Baker"".  Baristas  are very wary of Australians - we have a fiercesome reputation when it comes to judging coffee. Weather still ridiculously good.  It can't last.  Will have to wash some T shirts soon.

We did the Water of Leith walk from Leith to Dean Village. Very scenic walking mainly alongside the   Leith stream/water. Some  parts looked like wooded paths in the Lord of The Rings movie with the Dark Riders tearing along the path.  The part between Stockbridge and Dean Village, which gets the tourist vote for most scenic part, was especially pretty.  Stephen kept on glancing longingly at the water for evidence of any fish.  You can actually fish in the stream although we saw no evidence of anyone doing so.  Passed ye ancient well (St Bernards Well) where people used to take the waters.  Some hermit called St Bernard lived in a cave nearby or so one version of history says.  Where we finished our walk - Dean Village, is this strange almost separate little village in the middle of Edinburgh,  situated in this deep valley.  It was where the milling occurred as well as weaving, tanning and dying many moons ago (technical term used by serious historians).  Just read - there was grain milling here for over 800 years and was a separate village until the 19th century.  It's all dark red buildings, purely residential now, with tourists blundering around. Edinburgh seems to have been made out of a few separate villages until the burgh of Edinburgh absorbed them all eventually.  Found out today that Leith was bought and sold a few times. Mary Queen of Scots also apparently sold Leith to Edinburgh at one stage  - before it was bought back... and resold etc.

Discovered a new suburb -Broughton, which is in the New Town.  Lots of little shops, tenements being done up etc.  Could live there.  Also re-visited the National Gallery with SA.  Tried to replicate what the guide told me during the tour - not sure how successful I was.  The extra security had been dropped but woke this morning to the attack on London Bridge and Borough Market, so no doubt things will change again.  Feels a bit like the 1970's which I just remember, with the regular terrorists attacks.  Will not be visiting London any time soon at this rate. News of course filled with this story.

Making the most of the weather by still doing lots of walking.  Walked to Portobello from Leith.  It's a sea-side resort(ish) place complete with beach.  Ahh the British seaside.  There are some things we can feel superior about and the beach is one of them.  Enough said.  Like Leith, Portobello was a separate burgh until...Edinburgh absorbed it.  Many dogs tearing along the beach - in and out of the water and digging frantically burying their toys.   Portobello faces the Firth of Forth.  Was reliably informed that  the Firth of Forth means the estuary of the Forth River.  I just thought it was a tongue twister.  Supposedly some interesting things happened at Portobello at some stage. Names like Cromwell and William Wallace appear in wikipedia as having been here - secret meetings, preparations for battles etc but essentially it's now a little sea-side place for Edinburgh peoples to visit on sunny days.

Found great little pub down at The Shore - the hipster part of Leith on the water.    It is tiny and had a board out the front with a hipster joke on it.  Thought it was either going to be full of skin heads  and we were going to back out quickly or we'd feel at home.  We felt at home.  SA drank a Bellhaven Best although he tells me was not as good as Caledonian Best.  Half pint just had a draught cider.

Local allotment on the edge of Leith Links was having a mini market, selling fresh veg (grown in the allotment), fresh bread and... gift cards.  No scented candles though. Unusual.  Bought some bread as looked rather nice.

Walked back to flat and as we opened the front gate noticed we were being spied on by Hugo (one of the littler residents living upstairs) through the letterbox in their front door. Hilarious.