15 June

Woken by a 21 gun salute as part of Corpus Christi celebrations. Tried to avoid it for a bit so could do some sightseeing before actual procession started. Gave up. All roads seemed to lead to the Procession. Eventually found ourselves alongside one side of the Cathedral watching the parade. Nearly all the women in the procession were wearing white or black (mainly black) mantillas with the high comb (a peinta) . Not sure why some in white and some in black. Thought black was for married women and white for unmarried but did not seem to be quite right . Checked out some websites afterwards as was curious and noone seems to know these days. Essentially you wear what you want it seems. As I am unlikely to convert to Catholicism and start wearing a mantilla, probably not of great importance. The women looked stunning however - very dignified. Also lots of children- the girls wearing very formal white dresses like confirmation dresses and the boys in military type outfits. After the service a small group of horse riders appeared- believe they are part of the Civil Guard and behind them the processional cross was carried. Some of the horse riders wore hats that look like what a matador wears. All fascinating to us. Apparently they have been doing this procession since 1418. Loved looking at the women in particular in their black lace dresses with the mantillas and often fanning themselves with lace fans. Could have been in medieval times. Should have brought my fan from home. The women and even some men use fans to cool themselves- thought was only a tourist thing but clearly not. Wandered to Jewish sector after procession and passed an old monastery on the way- the Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes. Also walked through only structure that remains from Muslim period- the Cambron Gate. Then onto San Martin bridge- a medieval bridge across the river Tagus. The Jewish sector had little Jewish symbols in blue tiles on the cobbled road to signify was old Jewish sector. Quite sad I thought. Are some synagogues and a mosque elsewhere but all now Catholic Churches. The Moorish influences in particular on the buildings is very clear. Quite beautiful really especially some of the tile work. Heat continues apace - high 30's. We exited to hotel by 3pm as just unbearable by then. SA has had some successful using the 'maps me' application on his iPad to navigate us around. We still tend to wander in circles a bit as very confusing layout. Lovely salad for lunch. Curious but they have a lot of fish. Their salads often have tuna in them and calamari/squid is very popular. We're not sure why given we are nowhere near the sea. Not complaining though. Finished day with another lovely tapas meal. Cheated and went back to same restaurant. Waiter recognised us and this time when we ordered drinks we got a small plate of green olives -just like the locals. We must have passed some secret test. More tapas for dinner. Lovely fresh salad, a cold soup dish - like a gazpacho and some calarmari. The helpings are large so that was enough washed down with a beer and wine. Would like to come back here for another day lovely just wandering around. Would like to have gotten to see one of the old mosques and synagogues out of interest. Oh and after deciding buying a knife was a stupid idea, we bought a paring knife. SA could not resist. Going to have to book a bag in tomorrow - that is not going through the cabin bags security check.